Day 1-2: Cusco

Our first stop is the gateway to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. Cusco is one of the most magical places I’ve ever been to! Everything about it screams culture and history. Imagine an ancient empire sprawling thousands of miles across the continent. A network of roads spanning in every direction to the far reaches of its borders. All of them converging here. The stronghold of the Incan Empire. This place was a crossroads between major civilizations. Nowadays it’s a crossroads for travelers, adventure seekers, nature lovers, history buffs, foodies and all other sorts of wanderers.

How to Get There

By Air: The easiest way to get to Cusco, and the option most people choose, is by airplane. Whether you’re coming from abroad or you’re already in Lima there are numerous flight options for fairly cheap.

By Bus: Alternatively, you can get there via road. There are several bus companies that make the journey from nearly every other destination in Peru. But be warned…this can be a very long and winding trip.

What to Do

You only have a handful of days in Cusco before and after your next mission. I recommend spending the first couple of days exploring by foot to see the Plaza de Armas, wander the Mercado San Pedro and all the amazing cafes, shops and alleyways in between. This makes for a great welcome to Peru and helps keep things simple while adjusting to the altitude.

You can save the more ambitious exploration for after Machu Picchu. That’s when I’d recommend exploring beyond the center of the city. There are several options on the outskirts of the city or a short day-trip away. Whether you want to see more ancient ruins or head to the Sacred Valley for all its wonders. Check out my full Cusco guide below.

Where to Stay

There are accommodations to suit every type of traveler in Cusco. For this Peru travel itinerary we have two separate stays in Cusco (before and after Machu Picchu). You will definitely want to spend these first two nights close to the city center (Plaza de Armas). That will make for easy, casual exploration AND more importantly, easy to meet up with your guide/outfitter for your upcoming trek.

I highly recommend Nodo Hotel Garcilaso [formerly Selina]. This wonderful hotel makes for the perfect welcome to Cusco. It’s centrally located making it a great base for exploring. The open courtyard provides a great atmosphere for working, relaxing or socializing in case you care to start making some new friends. For me, it’s the ideal stay for your introduction to Cusco. Read more about it on my full Cusco guide here.

Day 3-8: Machu Picchu

After you’ve spent a few days settling into Cusco (and more importantly, adjusting to the altitude), you’ll be ready for an adventure! This particular adventure takes you through the majestic Andes to the crown jewel of the Incan Empire. You’re off to Machu Picchu!

There are a few ways to visit including the famous Inca Trail or by simply heading straight to Aguas Calientes. But I recommend the lesser known Salkantay Trek. It is absolutely the best way to experience the beauty of the Andes and the history of the Incan empire. It’s a once in a lifetime type experience that will stick with you forever!

You’ll spend the next 5 days (or however long you choose) climbing high into the Andes, passing through snow-capped mountain ranges, descending into lush fertile valleys, watching the landscape change from sparse hillsides to dense jungle…all the while learning the significance of the historical path you’re on. This incredible journey culminates in visiting the mesmerizing city perched atop a mountain. Can you ask for anything better?

My personal recommendation for a guided tour is Alpaca Expeditions. For more details, read my full guide to the Salkantay Trek.

Inca Trail vs Salkantay Trek

No matter which tour operator you go with, you’ll be faced with the same question: Inca Trail or Salkantay Trek? To which you ask, “What’s the difference?” Both are fairly demanding multi-day treks that get you Machu Picchu. Both need to be booked in advance. And both are incredible. The main differences are distance and difficulty.

The most popular route is the Inca Trail which is 43 kilometers (26 miles). Most agree it’s the less demanding of the two, but I’ve read the Inca Trail involves some very steep sections and less variety. Still beautiful of course, but more of a direct ascent to the ancient city.

The Salkantay Trek is nearly twice as long at 74 kilometers (46 miles) so you will need to be physically fit to take it on. But it’s worth the extra challenge. The route covers more terrain and offers a variety of landscapes. It feels very much like good ol fashioned exploration.

Skipping the Trail

If you’re short on time or worried about the challenge of a multiday trek, you can easily get to Machu Picchu via train or bus.

By Train: This is by far the easiest and quickest way to get to Machu Picchu. Simply choose your ride via PeruRail or IncaRail (or opt for the more luxurious Hiram Bingham train) to get to Aguas Calientes. From there you can take a short bus to the entrance or even hike to the top!

By Bus: There are several tour companies that offer bus or shuttle rides to Machu Picchu. This is definitely a more comfortable option. If you’re really looking to save some money, you can take a local bus. But this will involve a transfer at Ollantaytambo and only gets you to Hidroelectrica. At which point you’ll need to hike a few hours along the train tracks to reach Agua Calientes. It’s actually a fun little adventure in its own right.

Day 9-11: Back to Cusco

You’ll return to Cusco both elated and exhausted. Now is the time to really take in your surroundings. You can see my full list of recommendations here. But I suggest spending one day recovering and enjoying the city, then the next day choosing one of the many nearby sites to explore.

As for where to stay on this stint, you should have gotten a solid dose of the city center so now you can explore some accommodations a bit further out. If you want something in the middle (a bit of peace, but still easily walkable to the main square), I can recommend the authentically charming Hostal Madre Tierra.

Day 12-15: Arequipa

Once you’ve recovered from your trek through the Andes, it’s time to say goodbye to Cusco. There are several destinations to choose from here, but I recommend heading to Arequipa. To be fair, this place is not for everyone. But if you’re like me then you’ll find this old colonial town to be wonderfully charming. It’s called the white city as most of it was built from white stone straight from the nearby volcanoes. It’s incredibly picturesque. The stone facades backed up by the towering peaks. Old cathedrals and a large market. With a bustling coffee and food scene. Get ready to unwind in Arequipa!

How to Get There

Again, there are easier, quicker ways to get to Arequipa. But we’re in adventure mode here! That means bus ride. More specifically, an overnight bus saving you money on a night’s accommodation and maximizing time in each destination. It’s very simple to get one from Cusco. And sticking to overland travel is all part of the fun in my opinion. Here are some more details and tips for traveling via bus in Peru.

If you’re in a rush or prefer not to travel via road, you can also get there by plane. There are quick, 1-hour flights from Cusco directly to Arequipa.

What to Do

Similar to Cusco, Arequipa is made for walking. The streets themselves and architecture alone are just beautiful. But unlike Cusco, Arequipa is far less touristy giving it a much more peaceful atmosphere. This makes it great for wandering by foot, sampling the various food vendors, cafes and restaurants throughout. Visiting the Monasterio de Santa Catalina is a must and the nearby Plaza de Yanahuara offers a wonderful view of Volcan Misti. Check out my full list of recommendations here.

Where to Stay

Okay, this is where the perks of being a 30-something old traveler comes into play. Coming off the Salkantay Trek and keeping the other Cusco accommodations towards the budget end of the spectrum, it’s time to treat yourself! There are plenty of options in Arequipa, but I went with a very lovely room at Palla Boutique Hotel. It’s a beautiful place and very reasonably priced relative to hotels of this standard back home. Rooms have a beautifully rustic, yet modern feel. The staff was incredibly friendly during my stay. And it’s conveniently located near the main square.

Day 16-18: Mancora

From Arequipa, there are lots of nearby attractions or places to make your next destination en route to Lima. Nazca Lines, Colca Canyon, the extremely popular Huacachina. However, this Peru travel itinerary is all about variety. We’ve seen mountains, ancient cities, jungle, ruins, colonial towns…Now it’s beach time. Again, there are more accessible options, but tucked away on the northern coastline there’s a small beach town with a more laid back, backpacker vibe. Buckle up because it’s a long journey to Mancora.

How to Get There

This is where the journey gets a bit rough. Mancora is on the northern coast of Peru. The easiest way to get there is to fly. But that’s a little too easy and the road from Arequipa to Lima makes for an interesting ride. You’ll be driving through desert canyons, watching the volcanos fade into the distance. It was a busy road when I went and felt like something out of Mad Max as we drove into the sunset. The 16-HOUR journey saves you a bit of money of course, but it also provides an opportunity to process and appreciate all you’ve seen so far. And reset for the final leg of this Peru travel itinerary. So if you want to follow my footsteps you’ll first get that overnight bus from Arequipa to Lima. Then it’s a quick flight to Talara. And a quick bus onto Mancora.

What to Do

I went to Mancora for one reason: surfing! There’s a great left that peels directly along the main beach and a few shops that provide board rentals. There are also lessons available for beginners, but I would suggest learning elsewhere if it’s your first time. The wave can get crowded and improper surf etiquette can be dangerous.

Aside from surfing, Mancora is best taken at a stroll. It’s a small little beach town so you can easily walk to the various restaurants, cafes and bars. A few recommendations…

Ceviche: You’re in Peru which means you need to be eating ceviche. Best if you find a buddy to help because this vendor gave me a hefty portion!

Enjoy coffee at Cafe con Mar: The perfect spot to grab coffee on the beach. The covered patio overlooks the main break so you can scope the waves or watch the surfers. There was also wifi which was a pleasant surprise. One of the best remote offices I’ve ever worked from.

Find the donut man!: I’d noticed a vendor walking the beach selling some sort of pastry, but I was enjoying my post-surf beer and in no mood to chase him down. I spotted him on the street later and had to see what he was serving up. Turned out to be an amazing little chocolate filled donut. I made the mistake of just buying one and had to track him down again for more!

Where to Stay

There’s plenty of housing options in Mancora, many of which are directly on the beach. But apparently the main drag can turn into a party zone at night making those accommodations quite noisy. Nothing wrong with some travel fun, but at this age (and stage of the trip) a quiet place to sleep is the bigger priority. So I recommend Kimbas Bungalows. It’s like a small oasis with lush gardens and bamboo huts scattered about. The rooms are rustic and comfortable, complete with a hammock and lounge chairs on the small patio. The staff is so friendly and makes a lovely breakfast every morning. I highly recommend staying here if you’re looking for a more peaceful atmosphere. Yet it’s still just a short walk away from the main road making it easy to grab a drink or two.

Day 19-21: Lima

Ah Lima…Most people say there’s not much to see here, not worth much time, etc. But I actually really enjoyed my time here and wished I had more. It definitely doesn’t have some of the same buzz as other major cities around the world or the jaw dropping attractions of Cusco. But it’s a great place to spend at least a couple of days at some point on your trip. Delicious food, outstanding cafes and beautiful graffiti art.

How to Get There

The obvious route into Lima is by air as most people will have to fly through here before moving onto other parts of the country or depart from here en route home. But like everywhere else you’ve been on this journey, there’s a bus option to get us back to the capital city. Yes, it’s another long ride for us, but it’s also the last one!

What to Do

I didn’t get that much time in Lima so I’m no expert on the place. But I can highly recommend a few things that made my time there totally worthwhile. And if you’re following this Peru travel itinerary, you’ll get a solid dose of what the city has to offer.

Walking Tour: I wouldn’t say Lima is the most walkable city, but if you’re like me you’ll enjoy wandering to the various neighborhoods. There are walking tours available (which I did take) but I’d recommend exploring on your own if you feel comfortable doing so. Most of the beautiful murals I found were outside the tour. But if you prefer to have a guide, then a walking tour is a fine way to enjoy the city.

Eat at Al Toke Pez: Yes, I was influenced to go here because of Netflix, which normally I’m not about. But this place was right up my alley. A hole in the wall spot with very few frills and even less seats. The tiny kitchen is right in front of you so you can watch the magic happen. The food was so good and so reasonably priced it was clear that fame hadn’t gone to their heads. I love down to earth spots like this.

Parque Kennedy: If you can’t tell by now, I’m a big fan of people-watching. And reading. And public parks. Parque Kennedy checks all the boxes plus some. It’s a great little park and always seemed to have some action going on. Food vendors, live music, locals trading cards…simple things like this are so good especially after an 18-day sprint through the rest of Peru. I came here every night just to enjoy the atmosphere. Also, the park is home to an infinite amount of cats so you can even have a lap buddy if you want (don’t worry they’re well taken care of and friendly).

Where to Stay

You may only have a total of 2 nights in Lima so for convenience sake I recommend staying at NAIA Miraflores [formerly Selina]. It’s the perfect spot for quickly transiting through. Simple yet comfortable accommodations with plenty of opportunity to socialize. The location is walking distance (by my standards) to everything you might want to check out on the list above.