A narrow valley with a winding stream, grazing animals, and rocky hillsides, leading to a snow-capped mountain partially covered by clouds under a dramatic sky.

Salkantay: The Trek Less Traveled

Details on what to expect from this multiday trek to Machu Picchu

The Salkantay Trek is a once in a lifetime experience that will stick with you forever. Imagine retracing the steps of ancient Incas and old explorers, wandering through the Andes and discovering the marvel of Machu Picchu. All the while learning the history of the Incan Empire and making new friends along the way. Spend your days surrounded by natural beauty and your nights sleeping on the mountainside. Adventure awaits on the Salkantay Trek!

A turquoise mountain lake sits at the base of steep rocky slopes with patches of grass, below snow-capped peaks and cloudy skies.

Overview

One of the oldest bookmarked items on my Instagram is a picture of a vibrant, aqua blue alpine lake beneath a snowcapped mountain. A striking image of natural beauty in raw form. I remember seeing it and wondering “Where is that???” Turns out it’s one of the many awe-inspiring stops along the Salkantay Trek. A multiday hiking route through the Andes leading to Machu Picchu. It immediately became a bucket list item for me and nearly ten years later, I crossed it off the list.

This is my experience on the Salkantay Trek. My hope is that sharing it with you will inspire you to embark on the adventure yourself. And to provide some insight as to what you might expect from your own journey. You may have already read my Guide to Salkantay where I provide logistical information about the trek. But here I’ll go into a bit more detail of what I encountered on my tour with Alpaca Expeditions. A preview of what hopefully lies ahead for you!

Trek Details

The Salkantay Trek is nearly twice as long as the Inca Trail so you will need to be physically fit to take it on. But it’s worth the extra challenge. This route covers more terrain and offers a variety of landscapes. It feels very much like good ol fashioned exploration.

  • Duration: 4-6 Days
  • Distance: 74 Kilometers / 46 Miles
  • Difficulty: Strenuous
  • Season: March through January
  • Elevation: Gain and loss vary by day and itinerary…but there is a LOT.
  • Starting Elevation: 3900 m / 12795 ft
  • Highest Point: 4620 m / 15157 ft
  • Lowest Point: 1820 m / 5971 ft
  • Machu Picchu: 2430 m / 7972 ft

Pre-Trip Prep

There are a few things you need to do to get yourself ready to take on Salkantay…

Coordinate with your outfitter: Check to see if there’s anything that needs to be done prior to the trek such as an orientation meeting. I had to meet mine the day before for a quick introduction. They gave us a brief rundown of what to expect for departure and answered any questions we had. Especially with regard to packing.

Pack carefully: Porters will do most of the heavy lifting for you, but you’ll still need to be as lightweight and minimal as possible. Here’s a full breakdown on what to pack for the Salkantay Trek.

Get in shape: You do not need to be in peak physical condition or a professional mountaineer to survive this trek. But each day will be demanding. Long distances, steep inclines, thin air, stifling heat, etc. So make sure your legs and endurance are up for the challenge. Get yourself in shape well before visiting Cusco and then make sure you’re well rested before starting Salkantay.

Warning!

A quick note on altitude in case you haven’t read my Salkantay Trek Guide post. This is a high elevation trek. You will start at a high altitude, climb up and down at a high altitude and end at a high altitude. It is CRUCIAL that you arrive in Cusco at least a couple of days beforehand to let your body adjust to the elevation. Trust me on this. One of the hikers in our group did not follow these directions and arrived in Cusco the day before we started. He dealt with extreme migraines and dizziness the entire first day of the hike (which is arguably the most beautiful) and had to hire a mule to get him to our first camp.

The Trek

Transfer to Soraypampa

Today is by far the easiest because there’s no hiking involved. You’ll be taken by your outfitter to the starting location at Soraypampa. It’s an easy 3-4 hour drive so you’ll have plenty of time to listen to music, do some reading or more likely, get to know your fellow hikers.

Upon arrival, you’ll settle into your small cabin and enjoy your first meal together. It’s a great moment to chat with the group and share the excitement of the journey ahead. Be sure to keep your warm clothing accessible because it’s quite cold here.

Soraypampa is just the start, but the beauty of what lies ahead is already on full display. Frozen peaks in the distance illuminated by the bright light of the moon and a canvas of twinkling stars. Don’t gaze for too long…It will be an extremely early start tomorrow so I recommend getting to bed ASAP!

Personally, I was feeling a bit anxious. I always get this way before a trek no matter how well-prepared I am. It’s a mixture of anticipation and excitement I can’t help but feel sometimes. I don’t do well with early wakeups so I was nervous about not getting enough sleep. Or oversleeping and feeling rushed the next morning. Luckily, the beauty of the night sky helped put my mind at ease as we tucked in for the night.

Day 1 – Pristine Alpine Lakes & Conquering the Pass

Hope you got some good rest because Day 1 is when the real fun (aka work) begins. You’ll be woken before dawn by your guide and it’s a bit of a scramble to get dressed, packed and eat breakfast before starting the day’s hike.

Today will not be easy. But it will also be incredible! I found some comfort in the local dog who wished us good luck before departing. Today’s challenge will be climbing the Salkantay Pass, the highest point of the entire journey. It will be cold, strenuous, steep, and in our case, rainy at the top. But there will be incredible rewards along the way.

We set off from Soraypampa, bundled up against the cold, passing farms and meeting some local alpacas. The emergency vehicle perched at the start was a bit foreboding. But we were soon distracted by the beauty around us. Towering mountains capped in pure white snow leading down to brown and green hillsides with small streams flowing through. It felt like being in Middle-Earth.

Our first stop was Laguna Humantay…the place in the picture that had captured my imagination nearly a decade before. It’s a beautiful blue-green lake nestled beneath layers of mountainside. It’s a steep climb to get there and is actually out of the way, but don’t be discouraged by the additional mileage. The view is worth it.

We then retraced our steps to get back on trail and made our way towards Salkantay Pass. This portion of the trail is absolutely stunning. Mountains like I’d never seen before. Horses grazing on the flat, grass-covered valley. Small rivers and streams snaking their way through it all. We happily hiked this portion before starting the demanding climb to the pass.

This is that portion of the hike where some mental fortitude comes into play. The elevation will be challenging. The air will be thin. The trail will be incredibly steep. Just stay positive and literally take it one step at a time. Before you know it, you’ll reach the top and be as happy as we were.

Five hikers in outdoor gear stand together on rocky terrain, smiling in front of a colorful sign that reads “Abra Salkantay,” with a cloudy mountain backdrop.

From here, the scenery continues to amaze and as a bonus, it’s mostly downhill to camp. I loved the landscape of this area. When I first imagined hiking to Machu Picchu, I pictured overgrown jungle and smooth mountains. But this was different. We descended into a long valley, surrounded by mountains and billowing clouds. It didn’t feel jungle at all. That’s one of the best parts of Salkantay…watching the landscape transform the further you go!

We made it to our first night’s camp which was already set up for us. You’ll come to appreciate just how much your guides and porters are doing for you to provide a wonderful experience (more on them later). The location was surreal. Simple tents pitched against a towering mountain peak. Small tubs of hot water were provided for a little camp bath. We all rejoiced in having completed Day 1 over dinner. Then it was time for bed. What more can you ask for from a day on trail?

Day 2 – Changing Landscape & the Hobbit House

Day 2 offers a reprieve from the intense inclines and declines experienced yesterday. Even though it’s one of the longer days, you’ll be happy to find yourself on a more gentle, undulating trail as you slowly descend into the fertile valley below. Having gotten a very good night’s sleep you should be able to take in your surroundings at a much more leisurely pace today.

We woke up feeling refreshed from a longer night of sleep and with the knowledge that Salkantay Pass was behind us. After breakfast, we packed up and dressed for the morning chill. We were quickly peeling off layers however, as the trail gradually led us downhill into a warmer climate zone. It was fascinating to watch the landscape change around us. We started in the same grassy mountain terrain as the day before, but soon the vegetation was thickening around us and the river growing wider and stronger below us. The valley walls were now covered in green.

We hiked along the river for most of the day, sometimes viewing it far below and other times right next to it. There were a few crossings involving mostly secure looking bridges. The scenery will not be as spectacular compared to the day before, but the trade off is a much easier day on the legs and lungs. Plus, you may get to meet some amazing local pups along the way like I did!

Our guide had been telling us we’d be spending the night at the Hobbit house, but I didn’t quite know what that meant. Being the fan I am, I tried to manage my expectations. I assumed a shabby, gimmicky little setup. But then we turned off the trail and made our way through the brush to find our home for the night. It turned out to be a lovely little brick cottage perfectly suitable for a Hobbit. We’d gotten there with some daylight left so I helped myself to a jungle jacuzzi session above the river.

Day 3 – Lucmabamba Coffee & Eyes on the Prize

Day 3 starts easy enough with a visit to a local coffee farm, but turns into an uphill battle in the blaring sun with minimal shade. This will be challenging for some as it’s mostly an incline all the way until camp. Another one of those mental strength challenges. Make sure you’ve got plenty of water and prepare yourself for lots of sweating.

It was an easy walk to the nearby coffee farm. A small shack on the hillside run by a lovely family who showed us their coffee fields and production process. It was a great experience offering the chance to relax, roast beans, sample the coffee and learn from locals. It’s these extra experiences that make the Salkantay Trek so special…something more than just the end result of Machu Picchu.

After 2 or 3 cups of coffee, we began climbing out of Lucmabamba valley. It’s a steep, hot climb. We were all so thankful to reach the shade of a rest stop where a local savior…I mean vendor had snacks and drinks for sale. I cracked and fell to temptation as I bought the most expensive Snickers bar of my life. Totally worth it. And it paired well with my Gatorade.

Not long before it was time to hit the trail again and resume our ascent. The path was taxing, but worthwhile. Upon reaching the top, we found our first set of ruins. Stone remnants from the past glory of the Incan empire. We stopped here for a very insightful history lesson from our guide. Again, little things adding to the overall experience of this adventure.

Our camp for the night was one of the more spectacular views. You’ll find yourself perched right across from the ultimate goal, Machu Picchu. The entire valley is laid out beneath you from here making the ancient city look tiny in the distance. And to be honest, it still looks very far away at this point…but the finish line was in sight!

A person stands near a wooden fence on a grassy hilltop, overlooking mountain peaks at sunset. A rustic sign with a thatched roof is on the left, with dramatic clouds and colorful sky in the background.

Day 4 – The Final Leg & Aguas Calientes

Having fallen asleep across from your end goal, you’ll be feeling ready to tackle the last day of this trek! As you open your tent flap, you’ll be greeted by the sight of Machu Picchu and hot tea from your guide. Today will be one of the more entertaining legs of the trip as you descend from your mountaintop camp, cross rivers, hike along the railway and emerge into Aguas Calientes.

We woke up just before sunrise to get an early start to the day. It was a very steep descent down the mountainside. For those of you with knee problems, this is where the trekking poles come in handy. The trail was shaded, but the dense jungle made it stifling hot anyways. We were in the depths of the Andes now.

Despite the decline and the heat, the journey was incredibly scenic. Soon we were crossing the river via giant hanging bridges and taking in some wonderful views. We stopped at Hidroeletrica for a break and sampled the famous Inca Kola. It wasn’t my favorite, but it wasn’t my least favorite.

From here, the trail is basically flat the rest of the way. You’ll be hiking alongside the railway that connects Aguas Calientes to the outside world. Having read the history of this railway, it was crazy to see the reality of it and imagine how difficult it must’ve been to build in such dense jungle.

We hiked along the tracks and river as trains came and went. A couple of us snuck off at one point for a refreshing dip in the river which I’m not sure is allowed, but I can’t not jump in a river like that when I see one.

This part of the trail seemed to go on forever. It’s not terribly difficult…it just felt long. Maybe because of the anticipation of the end? Or the amount of hiking just to get to that point? Whatever the reason, you won’t be alone on this portion as this is the trail most visitors use to get to Agua Calientes.

Finally, we strolled into Aguas Calientes. It felt a bit weird to be thrust back into the civilized world, especially such a popular tourist destination. Three days on the trail almost made me forget we were at one of the wonders of the world! Now we were back amongst buildings, tourists, restaurants, etc…It felt like mission accomplished. We walked tired and dirty, but proud as our guide led us through town to our hotel. Yes, you’re in a real hotel tonight! Hot showers and a real bed please.

A narrow river flows through a small town with colorful buildings on either side, surrounded by lush green mountains partially covered in clouds.

We all agreed to meet for dinner and celebratory drinks. It was a wonderful night as we already began to reminisce about the last few days. I wound up having quite a few and staying out a bit later with my new, younger friends. I do not recommend this…It became a lesson about traveling in your 30s that has stuck with me ever since.

Three people are gathered around a pool table indoors at night; one is taking a shot, another stands holding a cue, and the third sits in the background. Warm lights and reflections create a cozy atmosphere.

The great thing about reaching Aguas Calientes via the Salkantay Trek is that the trek is just the beginning. The buildup to something more amazing and awe-inspiring than anything you’ve seen on the journey so far. Don’t be like me…go get some sleep because tomorrow you visit the crown jewel of Peru.

Day 5 – The Ancient City of Machu Picchu & Train Ride Home

Where do I even begin? What really needs to be said about a place like Machu Picchu? I could get into all of its history, its majesty, its aurora…but you already know about that. You didn’t seek out the Salkantay Trek without first setting your sights on reaching Machu Picchu. I will say this…no matter what you’ve seen or read, nothing compares to witnessing this incredible feat of Incan construction firsthand.

You’ll have another early wakeup call and make your way to the shuttle station, hoping to beat the worst of the crowds and tourist buses that arrive throughout the day. It’s a windy road to the top and to the entrance of Machu Picchu. Your guide will help you find your way and soon you’ll be wandering amongst the ruins. You will not be disappointed!

My jaw dropped immediately upon entering the historical site. It’s a bit of a madhouse at the visitor center, but much of that disappears once you enter the ancient city. That’s the benefit of having spent the night in Aguas Calientes and getting up early. My hangover quickly gave way to elation. Pictures don’t do this place justice. They just can’t capture the scale of this city, the heights of its location, the precision of its construction or the beauty of its ruin. The light stones set amongst the green lawns with mountains and bright blue skies in the background. It’s simply amazing. And the cascading terraces clinging to the mountainside are unbelievably impressive. How??? How did the Incas dream up such a place, let alone build it?

Ancient stone ruins of Machu Picchu sit atop a lush mountain ridge, with terraced fields and steep green mountains rising behind under a partly cloudy blue sky.
Ancient stone ruins of Machu Picchu sit on terraced green hills, with a tall mountain and clouds in the background under a partly sunny blue sky.

We spent the next few hours walking amongst this marvel, snapping as many photos as we could. It’s a bit overwhelming to be honest, so I recommend trying to stay present and really take it all in. Personally, I took the essential photos (including the one you’ve likely seen plastered all over the internet), but mostly kept the phone in the pocket. Before you know it, it’s time to depart.

We retreated back to Aguas Calientes to gather our stuff and catch a train to Ollantaytambo. I’d been so excited for this part of the journey and sure enough, it was one of my favorite parts of this whole experience. The train follows the winding river through mountain canyons and fertile valleys. Just a bit more beautiful landscape to take in before the end.

You’ll disembark at Ollantaytambo and be directed to your bus depending on your next destination. For me, it was back to Cusco where I checked into one of my favorite guest houses ever: Hostal Madre Tierra. Here I reflected on the journey I’d just completed. An incredible trek through the heart of Peru to the world famous Machu Picchu. It exceeded all of my expectations and I’m sure you’ll find it equally satisfying. If you decide to take this route and embark on the Salkantay Trek, you’ll be rewarded with one of the best experiences of your life!

Outfitter – Alpaca Expeditions

There are SO MANY companies to choose from for the Salkantay Trek. They’ll all get you to Machu Picchu in mostly the same way, but not all operate ethically or provide the same level of care to their workers or you, their customers. Do your research to find which seems the most fitting for your needs.

Photos courtesy of: Alpaca Expeditions

I went with Alpaca Expeditions and cannot recommend them highly enough. I chose them and stand by them for a variety of reasons:

  • Itinerary: They had exactly the route and accommodation types I was looking for. Several of the tours house you in fancy cabins along the way, but I prefer a more rugged experience. I liked the fact that Alpaca offered camping for a couple of nights on trail.
  • Smaller group size: The last thing you want on an adventure like this is a large group. #1 it can ruin the ambiance and #2 you’ll be hiking as a group so more people means more waiting for everyone to catch up.
  • Organized: I reached out to a few operators and Alpaca was one of the most responsive. They provided clear communication throughout and answered all of my questions along the way.
  • Responsible: Alpaca clearly takes care of their employees. And that kind of care trickled down as they took care of us. I’ve been on treks where the company and guides don’t care much about you once they’ve got your money in their pocket. This was not the case with Alpaca. Every step felt very reassuring and comfortable knowing they were trying to provide the best experience possible for us.

If you want to book with Alpaca Expeditions, take a look at their options here. They offer so much more than the Salkantay Trek, but if you’re sticking with that then see if Faustino (aka Tino) is available to be your guide…Best man for the job!

A note on your porters & cook:

Trekking through the Andes like this would not be possible without the crew that makes it happen. Your porters and cook carry nearly all the gear and food required for your journey to each stop along the way. They make camp. They break camp. They purify water. They feed you. They allow you to experience this adventure in the easiest way possible. They’re the last ones to leave camp as they do all the cleanup, but the first ones to make the next camp to set up before you arrive. That means they pass you on the trail. Every single day, these guys loaded down with packs at least 3x the size of yours catch up to and leave you in the dust on the trail. And they do this every week. They’re absolutely incredible. I encourage you to show your appreciation as much as you possibly can. Whether that be tipping or simply treating them with respect. We tried to get to know our crew as much as possible on our trek. And we were sure to tip each of them as well.

Hiking Without a Guide

It is possible to hike the Salkantay Trek without a guide. I even met someone on the trail who was running various routes on his way to Machu Picchu. I hope to do something similar in the future and give you all the tips from that experience. But for now, if you’re looking into that be sure to do your research and remember…no porters for you!

Final Thoughts – Salkantay Trek

I’m incredibly thankful for everyone that was a part of my journey on this trek. To my fellow hikers who will always be friends, bonded together by this special experience. To the crew and local hosts who made this journey possible with their tireless work and generous hospitality. To all the dogs I met along the way who made each day that much better. And of course, to the Incas..who build such an incredible world around them that we’re still marveling at centuries later. Khali kaq kachun!

A man wearing sunglasses and a backpack stands smiling in front of the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu, with green mountains and a cloudy blue sky in the background. Salkantay Trek completed.

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